Thailand is an addictive destination; many people who come on vacation do not want to return home. And when those who have been living here for years decide it’s time to pack up and leave, they often find themselves returning, as if some force is drawing them back. It’s hard to describe, but people feel a weight lifted off their shoulders here. They feel at peace. There’s something about Thailand that’s difficult to leave behind, and it’s attracting more and more expats as the years go by. As a result, I’ve put together this comprehensive guide to expat life in Thailand for anyone who is mulling over a move to the Land of Smiles. We’ll cover everything you need to know about being an expat, including visas, costs, healthcare, learning Thai, renting a place to live, and more.
Understanding Thai Visas and Work Permits
I’m going to be honest with you. In moving to Thailand, dealing with the visas/work permits is the most annoying part of expat life. What visas you’re able to get will depend in large part on what country you’re from, so I can’t give a lot of specific advice here. However, we will try to cover the most common visas for expats. I won’t go into the technical names for each of these, but only use the names they are generally referred to as:
1. ED Visa (Education Visa)
- Purpose: For those studying in Thailand (language, Muay Thai, etc.).
- Length: 90 days initially (might depend on factors such as location and school), can usually be extended up to 1 year.
- Requirements: Enrollment in a recognized educational institution.
- Note: Be cautious of some language schools. There are a lot of visa-mill-type places that do not require you to go to class. Immigration has been cracking down on these lately, and there have been some reports of people having issues getting back into Thailand with an ED visa. If you’re planning to leave Thailand and come back during your stay, I would not recommend it.
2. Marriage Visa
- Purpose: For those married to a Thai national.
- Length: 1 year, renewable.
- Requirements: Proof of marriage; financial requirements (400,000 THB in Thai bank or monthly income of 40,000 THB).
- Notes: Allows visa holders to apply for a work permit.
3. Retirement Visa
- Purpose: For retirees aged 50 or older.
- Length: 1 year, renewable.
- Requirements: Age 50+; financial requirements (800,000 THB in Thai bank or monthly pension of 65,000 THB).
- Notes: Does not allow work.
4. Thailand Privilege (Thailand Elite Visa)
- Purpose: Long-term stay for those who can afford it.
- Length: 5-20 years depending on membership type.
- Requirements: Financial requirements (900,000 THB to 5,000,000 THB, depending on membership).
- Notes: Includes perks like airport services, but it doesn’t allow work. The Elite Visa is essentially a visa for rich people.
5. DTV Visa (Digital Nomad Visa)
- Purpose: For remote workers, Thai cultural activities (such as cooking or Muay Thai), and medical tourism.
- Length: 5 years.
- Requirements: The requirements will differ slightly depending on whether you’re a remote worker or not, but they are mostly as follows: proof of employment or documents that confirm intention to partake in cultural activities/medical tourism; financial requirements (at least 500,000 THB).
- Note: As of 2024, this is a brand new visa, so a lot may change in the coming months or years.
6. Tourist Visa (not recommended)
- Purpose: Short-term visits.
- Length: Usually 60 days, can be extended for 30 more days at immigration.
- Requirements: Round-trip air tickets; financial requirements (10,000 THB per person); proof of accommodation.
- Notes: This is not a good idea to do long term, as it is inconvenient to leave four times per year. Eventually, immigration officers may catch on to what you are doing anyway.
Final Thoughts on Thai Visas
One important thing to know about Thai visas is that sometimes the requirements or rules are not clear. Recently, for example, some people who were formerly on an ED Visa got rejected when they applied for the Elite Visa (expat life in Thailand isn’t always fair). I believe this is because immigration suspects some foul play, perhaps by the school that sponsored them, even though it would technically not be the fault of anyone who signed up. After all, one cannot always know if their school is a visa mill, and sometimes (it seems that) people are punished even when they thought they were following the rules. If you do end up choosing an ED visa, or any visa, really, make sure you do your due diligence.
If you can help it, choose a visa that won’t require you to visit the immigration often (unless it’s for a quick 90-day report), especially if you’re in Bangkok. Sometimes, you have to wait at immigration all day, and it is a very unpleasant experience when you have to run to the copy machine all day because you’re missing some document or other.
Further, rules and regulations can change on a dime, so it’s always best to keep up on the news. Unfortunately, the administrative processes in Thailand can sometimes be inefficient and unpredictable.
Now that we’ve got the visas out of the way, we can move on to costs and money, a major contributing factor for many who choose to live in Thailand.
Cost of Living in Thailand: What to Expect
When I first moved to Thailand, I didn’t know what to expect regarding costs, but I felt surprised at both how cheap and how expensive some things were. To this day, I am still satisfied buying a local meal for $2-$3 USD. That never gets old. Rent is a similar story. But if you like to go out drinking, you can drain your bank account fast. Places like Khao San aside, some bars and clubs have drinks that are almost the same prices as many countries in the West, so don’t expect all the costs to be lower. Expat life in Thailand can still be costly!
The cost of living in each city, of course, will be different. However, Bangkok will invariably be the most expensive, so for our purposes, let’s take it as the base case. If you move to Chiang Mai, Pattaya, or somewhere in Isaan, you can rest assured that the prices will be even lower.
Bangkok: A Rough Example of the Cost of Living
Here’s a quick and rough monthly breakdown of possible costs while living in Bangkok:
- Rent (studio/1-bedroom in city center): 15,000 – 25,000 THB.
- Utilities: 2,000 – 3,000 THB.
- Food (mixture of local and western): 10,000 – 15,000 THB.
- Transportation: 2,000 – 3,000 THB.
- Entertainment: 5,000 – 10,000 THB.
Total: 34,000 – 56,000 THB (~$1,000 – $1,700).
Obviously, these are just ballpark figures. If you’re happy eating Thai food every day, your food costs will be significantly lower. And if you don’t drink alcohol, that will also lower your costs tremendously.
How to Save Money Living in Thailand
No matter where you choose to live in Thailand, here are a few money-saving tips I’ve picked up over the years:
- Eat local: As we mentioned already, Thai food is not only delicious but also crazy cheap. A plate of pad thai from a street vendor might set you back 50 THB (~$1.50), while the same dish in a tourist restaurant could cost 150 THB ($4.50) or more.
- Learn to use local transportation: Taxis and tuk-tuks can add up quickly. It’s almost always better to take the major rail lines (if you’re in Bangkok) or else buses. In places like Chiang Mai, a lot of expats get around by motorbike.
- Shop at local markets: Don’t shop at fancy supermarkets (like Villa Market), but instead go to local ones that sell fruits, vegetables, and other important items.
- Choose your accommodation wisely: Many people choose to live away from city centers, whether you’re in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, or somewhere else. In the major cities, the cost difference will be steep, and you’ll be able to save a lot.
- Limit ATM and currency exchange fees: If you don’t have a Thai bank account set up yet, pulling out money from ATMs can be costly. Last time I checked, it costs about 200 baht to withdraw money, and that’s not including the money lost on the higher exchange rates.
Final Thoughts on Costs of Living
One final topic related to costs is the concept of the “farang tax”. Farang means foreigner, usually referring to white foreigners. However, no matter what country you are from, if you’re not Thai, you may pay a different price than advertised. To be honest, this mostly happens around tourist areas, though you will also see temples with two different prices. It’s not exactly the most welcoming gesture in the world, but they don’t mean harm by it. It’s just a normal part of expat life in Thailand. After all, they know (assume) that our money goes a lot further than theirs much of the time. Needless to say, of course, not all foreigners come from wealthy countries or even have money. But this is a debate for another time.
Now that we’ve covered general costs, let’s dive into what is usually the biggest cost of all, rent.
Renting in Thailand
One of the most important decisions you’ll make in Thailand is where to live, especially if you plan on working remotely. Luckily, there are all kinds of housing options available. People generally stay in serviced apartments, condos, or houses.
Serviced Apartments
A serviced apartment is kind of like a mixture between a hotel and an apartment. They come with furniture, and they may even clean your room once or twice a month. Serviced apartments are great because they don’t tie you down for six-month or one-year contracts. You can often simply rent one month to month. I stayed in a serviced apartment for the majority of the time that I’ve lived in Thailand, and though the buildings may seem slightly more run down than the newer condos, they are still good places to stay. Most foreigners do not stay in them, though I think they are an underrated option. One thing to watch out for is the water and electricity prices, as some buildings make their money by luring tenants with low rents but gauge the prices of things like water and electricity.
Condos
Then of course, you have condos, which most expats live in. They generally have nice swimming pools and gyms, and your electricity and water will usually be charged at the government rate. The rooms are also furnished most of the time, so there’s no need to worry about bringing all your stuff.
Houses
And then there are houses, which, to be honest, you don’t see too many expats living in, except for people with families. In places like Chiang Mai, I’ve seen 2-3 bedroom houses just outside the city center for as little as 10,000 THB ($290 USD), so it can be a great choice if you’re somewhere more rural.
Tips on Renting a Place to Live
Whenever you do decide to finally rent a place, here are a few tips for the process (which can be frustrating, to say the least):
- Find a licensed agent. The real estate market in Thailand does not require you to have a license, so there may be a lot of people working as agents part time. They may be inexperienced and frankly, a bit unreliable.
- If you’re looking in Bangkok, agents may not want to help you until there are a few weeks left before your move-in, so it’s always important to keep that in mind and not freak out when you haven’t found a place in time.
- Make sure to view the place in person before signing anything, and check for damages and problems.
- Feel free to negotiate. Agents usually make a portion of your rent, and are technically working for the landlord, so they are incentivized to get you to pay as much as possible. The longer you decide to rent the place, the more you can negotiate lower.
- Get everything in writing.
Whatever you do, take your time. The contracts for condos and houses are usually a year long, so it’s important to explore the area a bit and make sure you’ll be happy staying there.
Let’s move on to something a little less exciting, but important nevertheless: healthcare.
Healthcare in Thailand for Expats
In Thailand, healthcare is something that is easy to be negligent about if you’re young and healthy. Even if you get really sick, a doctor’s visit to a private hospital is incredibly cheap, as long as you don’t need any expensive testing or procedures. Most of the time the doctor’s fee is only 1,000-2,000 THB ($30-$60).
But obviously, this is a silly way to live, as eventually, you might need some serious medical attention. I learned this the hard way when I broke a bone, and I had to pay for repeat doctors visits, casts, etc.
There are many types of insurance that you can get, but before you do that, you should double-check to see if your employer (if you have one) is already covering you. If not, you can get a Thailand-based health insurance plan, or else one of the more international ones for digital nomads, such as Safetywing (this is not an advertisement).
Overview of the Thai Healthcare System
In general, healthcare in Thailand is high-quality and affordable. Doctors are highly educated people, and they usually speak English, especially in the major cities. As an American, I was impressed with the cleanliness of hospitals here, especially the big ones in Bangkok, such as Bumrungrad.
The healthcare system here is a mix of public and private hospitals. The public system, subsidized by the government, provides basic care to Thai citizens at very low costs. As an expat, you can access this system, but you’ll pay higher rates than locals.
Private hospitals, on the other hand, are the more expensive option, and this is where most expats end up. Though technically they are paying a premium, expats choose private because of the shorter wait times (at public hospitals, you might have to wait all day) and higher-quality care. Even private healthcare in Thailand can be significantly cheaper than what you’re used to in your home country (assuming there is no socialized medicine). The reason that healthcare can seem so impressive in Thailand is that most tourists/expats only see the “expensive” places.
Now, let’s move on to another important part of expat life in Thailand: moving and managing money.
Banking and Finances for Foreigners
When I first arrived in Thailand, I was lucky because I was able to get a bank account through my job. I got signed up with Siam Commercial Bank (the purple one), and have been able to receive payments there ever since. If you’re staying in Thailand long term, it’s especially important that you get a bank account because ATM fees and Western Union transfers can be a huge added expense.
Opening a Thai Bank Account
Luckily, it’s possible to open a Thai bank account as a foreigner, and I highly recommend it. (It will make your life as an expat in Thailand much easier.) Most importantly, it will allow you to pay almost everywhere by scanning a QR code.
Here’s what you’ll typically need:
- Your passport.
- A valid long-term visa (tourist visas are usually not enough).
- Proof of address in Thailand (rental agreement or utility bill).
- Additional requirements will vary by bank.
Whether or not you’re allowed to get a bank account will depend on what visa you have. There have been some reports of people getting a bank account with a tourist visa, but it doesn’t happen often. You might have to go to a few banks (and even different branches of the same bank) to get yes for an answer.
International Money Transfers
If you’re an expat who gets paid in another currency, you’ll have to send it to Thailand to use it somehow. As we discussed, pulling money out of ATMs will be costly, and the best option after that is international money transfers (this will require you to have a Thai bank account set up already, though). Personally, I don’t bother with bank/wire transfers, though I think if they are very large amounts you might be able to save some money, though you seem to always have to visit the bank with those.
The digital options are usually much better. As an American, the only two companies I use are Remitly and Wise (TransferWise). Some of my European friends swear by Revolut. It really depends on where you’re sending money from.
In my experience, when transferring dollars from a US bank to THB in my Thai bank account, Remitly is better for large amounts of money, while Wise is better for smaller amounts (less than $1,000). Wise can take up to 30 minutes to send, but Remitly usually sends it instantly. Each has slightly different pricing, and Wise is heavier on fees, but Remitly takes most of their cut through worse exchange rates.
Managing your finances as an expat can be challenging at first, but it’s not too difficult to get the hang of. Now, let’s move on to something that can really improve expat life in Thailand: learning the local language.
Learning Thai
This is something countless people try to do but fail. Since we’re speaking honestly here, I seldom meet any expats who can speak Thai fluently. Many people who have been living here for decades only know enough to get by. It’s funny, but true. People say it’s hard, but I think most people don’t see the cost-benefit of fully committing to it. I’ve learned a lot myself, but in all fairness, Thailand is still a really easy place to get around without learning Thai. Though many Thais don’t speak English, they are still eager to help you, so there isn’t as much awkwardness there. However, I still recommend that you learn it.
Learning the language is just one part of integrating into expat life in Thailand, but equally (if not more) important is grasping the nuances of Thai culture.
Thai Culture and Etiquette
If you’re coming from a western country, then the differences in Thai culture will often have you scratching your head. There are a few basic concepts you need to understand about their culture (I recommend Mont Redmon’s book Wondering into Thai Culture), and once you understand them a lot of their behavior will make sense. The most important thing to understand is the concept of “face.”
“Face” in Thai Culture
This is an important cultural concept, maybe the foundation of all the others. You can think of it akin to something like dignity, reputation, or respect. Keeping face is all about maintaining social harmony, especially as it appears.
Let’s run through a quick example so that I can show you what I mean.
Let’s say you work in a Thai company, and your coworker, Ping, has made a big error in her report.
In the west, we might let her know that she has made a mistake, thinking we are doing her a favor because now she can correct it.
This is not the case in Thailand, and if you directly tell her she has done something wrong it is considered rude and she will “lose face.” As a result, you will have to make her realize she has made a mistake indirectly, without criticizing her.
From a western perspective, this leads to all kinds of absurdities, like having to pretend that you don’t notice it, while finding a roundabout way to have her discover it herself. It can be frustrating at first, but you should also keep it in mind as much as you can, and use it to your advantage.
Last but not least, never, ever, get angry. You will lose face this way. It is not a good look in Thailand, and it will not improve your situation, whatever it may be.
Now that that’s out of the way, here are a few other cultural rules to be aware of.
Cultural Dos and Don’ts
There are many articles online that say things like “don’t touch people’s heads” or “use your right hand to pay,” but this is not something that is required. I have never had anyone get upset at me for touching their head, and I’ve never encountered anyone that was upset with me paying with my left hand, either. The following are real rules you need to follow when living in Thailand.
Dos:
- Always show respect for the Thai royal family. (Lèse-majesté laws are taken seriously in Thailand.)
- Remove your shoes before entering homes.
- Dress modestly when visiting temples.
Don’ts:
- Avoid pointing with your feet or showing the soles of your feet to others (they will forgive you for this, but it’s nice to remember).
- Don’t hold the door open with your feet, either.
- Public displays of affection are not common, so avoid them if you can.
- Don’t disrespect Buddha images or monks.
- Don’t raise your voice or show anger in public.
Final Remarks on Culture
Life in Thailand as an expat teaches you patience. There are all kinds of things that do not go as planned. Keeping a laid back attitude towards everything is the only way not to get stressed out. When it rains, there may be no one to deliver your food. You order a taxi, but he stops to fill up his gas tank in the middle of your trip. There will be many such situations that will seem downright laughable, and it’s best to take them as such.
Now that we’ve covered the basics of Thai culture, let’s move on to transportation.
Transportation and Getting Around
One of the great parts about Thailand is that transportation is abundant. If you’re in Bangkok, the options are limitless, with rail lines, buses, and just about everything you can think of, including motorcycle taxis and boats.
With other major cities, you won’t have any real trouble either, and there are ride-hailing applications such as Grab and Bolt (similar to Uber), both of which are used widely.
If you’re somewhere more remote, you may have to rely on songthaews, or else invest in your own motorbike.
While getting around is easy, finding places to go and building a social circle can be more challenging, especially if you’re new to the country.
Social Life and Making Friends
Though life is very convenient in Thailand, some people do complain about not making enough friends. This is especially true for digital nomads who don’t have any coworkers in the country. Some of my best friends I’ve made through work, and from there, friends of friends. But this isn’t the only way.
There are plenty of Meetup groups all over Thailand. No matter which city you go to, there are bound to be expat communities (unless the area is really, really rural). Another option is Facebook groups. Simply type the name of the city you’re living in and “expats” into Facebook, and I guarantee you will find something. Coworking spaces might work too.
Otherwise, you can walk into an expat bar and try to be social. If you’re in a busy place like Bangkok, you can simply grab a beer and walk down the street. You might be surprised at how quickly you will meet new friends.
While making friends is important to enjoying expat life in Thailand, securing a stable job is what truly sustains it. In the final section, let’s explore how to make your move financially viable.
Working in Thailand: Employment Opportunities
Let’s imagine for a moment that you want to move to Thailand, but you’re not sure what you can do for work (and you’re not a digital nomad). Your best bet is to carry over whatever skills you’ve gained elsewhere and apply them here. Granted, that may not work in many cases. For example, if you’re an electrician, you can’t just move here and get a job working as one. You’ll likely have to start over and learn a new skill.
The good news is that if you’re from an English-speaking country and have a bachelor’s degree, you can get a job as long as you have a pulse. Well, that’s not quite true, you will also need a TEFL/TESOL certification (though that’s fairly easy to get). There are a few other requirements as well, but mostly run-of-the-mill things like a clean background check and a health certificate. Your employer will usually take care of the work permit for you.
Otherwise, the job market for foreigners is pretty bleak. If you work at a big multinational company, you can ask to be transferred, but this is not going to work for everyone. Tourism and hospitality seem popular with foreigners, real estate, NGOs, and strangely, finance.
If none of these are viable for you, you can also consider starting a business. There are, however, very strict regulations on foreign ownership, and in general, most businesses require 51% Thai ownership.
If you want to become a digital nomad somehow, then I would try to pursue that. It’s becoming easier and easier to work here as one; with the new DTV visa, you don’t really need a work permit anymore (so long as you are not doing business in Thailand). Geoarbitrage is really the best deal there is in terms of “working here.”
If you do end up looking for a job in Thailand, I recommend searching on JobsDB and LinkedIn. If you want to teach English, try to teach at international schools, as they will pay you well.
Expat Life in Thailand: The Bottom Line
There you have it. Everything you need to know about expat life before moving to Thailand. One thing that’s for certain is that your life here will not be dull. The best part about living in Thailand, in my opinion, is how it walks the line between adventure and convenience. It is not as sterile and lifeless as many suburban places worldwide, where space seems owned and orderly, and yet it’s not quite as dangerous or lawless as other countries, either. The genuine warmth of its people, too, never gets old.